On horseback between the maquis and the sea

Just behind Castiglioncello, on the Crepatura hill, the countryside changes quickly: the houses end and the white gravel roads begin, between olive groves, dry-stone walls and the low scrub that runs up to the ridge.

It is ground for riding or mountain biking at walking pace rather than racing: short climbs, good surface, and the view opening over the gulf where the ridge turns. Local stables run outings of an hour and a half, including for people who have never been on a horse.

The season runs from September to June. In July and August you go early in the morning or at sunset, when the air moves.